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The CLOCHE HAT is a fitted,
bell-shaped women's hat
that was invented in 1908
by milliner Caroline Reboux.
Its name is derived from
cloche, the French word
for "bell". They were very
popular from about 1922
o 1933 when the influence
of cloche hats was at its
peak. Couture houses like
Lanvin and Molyneux
opened ateliers to join
milliners in manufacturing
hats that precisely matched
their clothing designs.
The hats even shaped hair
styles, "The Eton Crop, the
short, slicked-down cut
became popular because
it was ideal to showcase
the hat's shape.

Fabrics

JUST WHAT IS THE DIFFERENCE... THE WEAVE!

Especially today with synthetic substitutes.

CHIFFON, a French word for rag, is a transparent, diaphanous, translucent, a shimmer-through-material with a slightly rough feel to it. Under a magnifying glass chiffon resembles a fine net or mesh which gives it some transparency.

Early chiffon was made purely from silk. In 1938, however, a nylon version of chiffon was invented, and in 1958 polyester chiffon was invented and became immensely popular due to its resilience and low cost. Today, it can be made from cotton, silk or synthetic fibers, but is usually associated with silk or nylon. Chiffon can be dyed to almost any shade desired, however if made from polyester, it is difficult to dye.

Chiffon is most commonly used in evening wear, especially as an overlay, for giving an elegant and floating appearance to the gown. It is also a popular fabric used in blouses, ribbons, scarves and lingerie. Like other crepe fabrics, chiffon can be difficult to work with because of its light and slippery texture. Due to this delicate nature, chiffon must be hand washed very gently. Since chiffon frays very easily, bound or French seams must be used to stop the fabric from fraying.

Silk Chiffon is an unbelievably soft, barely there fabric. Great for mantilla veils and dress overlays. Pros: Nice drape and light, airy quality to it. A natural fiber. Cons: Snags and frays easily. It is the very difficult with which to work.

CREPE is the name given to fabric having a crinkled or pebbled texture, often used for blouses and dresses with graceful drape. Almost any fiber may be used, and the fabric can be thin and sheer, fine and opaque, or even heavy. Crepe (alt. crape) fabric may be stretchy, requiring care to cut and sew accurately.

Crepe is breathable. However, 100% polyester crepe fabric that is completely opaque, keep in mind that it will not be as breathable as a silk or wool crepe. For those that prefer the breathability of natural fabrics, look for crepe fabric that is 100% silk or wool.

ENGLISH NET is a popular dress fabric with many brides. It has a tulle look (see further down) without the poof. A nice mid-ground between tulle and silk chiffon. It is softer than most tulle, therefore has a beautiful drape, unlike. But, it is not as fine as tulle, threads are more pronounced and the holes of the netting are bigger.

ORGANZA is a thin, plain weave, sheer stiff fabric traditionally made from silk. Many modern organzas are woven with synthetic filament fibers such as polyester or nylon.

Silk organza is woven by a number of mills along the Yangtze River and in the province of Zhejiang in China. A coarser silk organza is woven in the Bangalore area of India. Deluxe silk organzas are woven in France and Italy. Silk Organza is a very crisp sheer fabric. Some designers do use this in veils, but others only use it for overlays and accessories. it a bit too stiff for a nice veil.

Organza is used for trimming hats, gowns, evening dresses and bridal-wear. In the interiors market, it is used for effects in bedrooms and between rooms. Double-width organzas in viscose and acetate are used as sheer curtains.

Poly Sheer costs significantly less than chiffon or organza and is an adequate stand-in. It is not stiff.

TULLE is a lightweight fine mesh, stiff net fabric most commonly used to make wedding veils and embellish wedding gowns. It is often starched. Tulle can be made from a variety of natural and synthetic fibers, including silk, nylon, rayon, or cotton. Tulle comes in a wide array of colors and it is readily available. It can be dyed at home if it is made from nylon, rayon or silk but not if it's made from polyester.

Tulle is used in evening and wedding gowns, costumes, ballet tutus, hats, and lingerie. It is often used as an accent, to create a lacy, floating look. Tulle may also be used in underskirts or petticoats to create a stiff belled shape. Gowns are often puffed out with the use of several layers of stiff tulle. Tulle netting is also used to make veils, since it obscures the features of the face while allowing the wearer to see out.

Decorative ornaments can also be made from tulle netting. It is frequently used to wrap up party favors and gifts, especially for weddings and baby showers. Scraps of tulle netting are sometimes used in quilting and crafts as well, to add texture to a project. Multicolored tulle netting is often used for this purpose, to create tulle flowers and other ornamental accents

The fabric is named for the city of Tulle, France, where it was first made. Tulle city in the southern central region of France, was well known as a center of lace and silk production in the 18th century, and early tulle netting probably originated in this French city.

Tulle netting certainly appeared earlier in Parisian ballet costume than in most other nations, suggesting that tulle netting may have been more readily available there than elsewhere. This versatile fabric first became associated with weddings when Queen Victoria used it to create her bridal gown in 1840. ,

The majority of tulle is actually bobbinet, invented in Britain in the early 19th century. Bobbinet is made by wrapping the weft thread around the warp thread, creating a strong hexagonal design which tends not to twist or fall out of shape, because the wrapped threads maintain a state of tension. The result is tulle netting which is lightweight and surprisingly strong and durable for its weight.